The Bvlgari Serpenti has been a staple in the watch world for 75 years now. More than any other, this luxurious watch is synonymous with a refined sense of fashion. Its snake-like design showcases stunning craftsmanship, and has captured the hearts of many women over the years. This year, the icon celebrates its 75th birthday, but it certainly doesn’t look its age! The Bvlgari Serpenti exudes a timeless elegance and style. In honor of the model’s milestone anniversary, we’re taking a deep dive and exploring what makes the Serpenti such a coveted luxury item to this day.
Origins of the Bvlgari Serpenti
When the Serpenti collection was first introduced in 1948, it almost exclusively featured wristwatches crafted using the Tubogas technique. This approach involved wrapping interlocking strips of gold – and later other metals – around a wooden mold, resulting in a lightweight, flexible bracelet that still retained its shape. The technique allowed manufacturers to make bracelets unlike any the world had ever seen before. As the story goes, a Bvlgari employee first came across Tubogas in Russia. Whatever the case, there’s no doubt that the experiment was a successful one.
The Tubogas bracelets were vaguely reminiscent of gas pipes, and had an industrial charm that was considered avant-garde at the time. This character was further enhanced by their use with functional timepieces, as opposed to being exclusively decorative accessories. In the earliest models, the watch case wasn’t shaped like a snake’s head; the technology available at the time wouldn’t have allowed it. But even though the original Serpenti didn’t explicitly depict a snake, the reptilian essence was still there thanks to its bracelet wrapping around the wearer’s arm. And thus, the collection earned its name.
The Snake as a Symbol
It’s hard not to be fascinated by snakes. Even if you’re afraid of them, you have to admit they’re amazing. The ancient Egyptians worshiped them, and their draw has remained unwavering to this day. Part of the fascination undoubtedly comes from their contradictory nature. On the one hand, serpents can bring about certain death with their venom – a symbol of destruction. In both Judaism and Christianity, the snake has negative connotations due to its role in man’s expulsion from paradise. And yet, they are constantly renewing themselves by molting – a symbol of rejuvenation and rebirth. We can’t deny the sheer strength that lies dormant in these creatures.
Supposedly, Bvlgari chose the snake motif purely for aesthetic reasons. But do you really believe that’s the whole story? An Italian fashion brand choosing a serpent theme solely for its looks? Well, as far back as Ancient Rome, people were wearing snake-shaped bracelets. Moreover, the snake was the symbol of Asclepius, the Greek god of medicine and healing. And what about the zeitgeist at the time of the Serpenti’s debut? War had ravaged Europe and shaken society as we knew it. Many people longed for a new beginning, a rebirth of sorts. In other words, they longed for everything the snake symbolizes. It’s hard to believe that the symbolism didn’t influence Bvlgari’s decision to some extent, even if it was unconscious.
The Evolution of the Bvlgari Serpenti
The Serpenti’s straightforward, industrial style was well-suited to the post-war era. As mentioned, the only reptilian element on the original watch was the wraparound Tubogas bracelet. In the 1950s, snake-head jewelry entered the scene, and the Serpenti started looking more realistic and less industrial. However, the watch dials remained square because it was still too difficult to develop a caliber small enough to fit in the narrower case shape. The 1960s brought about a lot of colorful experimentation; from enamel to precious stones, the snake-like line served as a blank canvas for designers. Alongside the successful Serpenti bracelets, belts and handbags entered the collection.
The contemporary watch collection reflects the various forms that the Bvlgari Serpenti has taken on during its decades of history. This includes Tubogas models, of course, but also versions with a leather strap. Special attention was paid to accentuating the snake’s scales in the Serpenti Seduttori line. In contrast, the Viper series has a more modern feel thanks to its sharper, more striking contours. Each of the model lines has its own unique character, but they are all united by the snake motif and high-quality finishing. While Bvlgari has Italian roots, all watch components are made and assembled in the Swiss watchmaking epicenter of Neuchâtel.
Famous Wearers of the Serpenti
The Bvlgari Serpenti also owes its current status as an icon to a range of stars who’ve been enthusiastic about the model. First and foremost, Elizabeth Taylor owned numerous watches and pieces of jewelry from the Serpenti line. It seems like a match made in heaven, especially given her appearance as the titular role in the classic film Cleopatra. Just like the historical figure, Taylor clearly had an affinity with snakes. Actress Gina Lollobrigida and editor-in-chief of American Vogue, Diana Vreeland, likewise are afflicted with the Serpenti. You’ll still find the model gracing red carpets today, including on the wrists of younger stars like Zendaya.
Not only do these media spotlights showcase how each star makes the Serpenti her own, but it also demonstrates how the fascination with this line has remained intact for the past 75 years. Seeing the watch on the wrists of prominent individuals serves as inspiration for how to wear and style the model. Moreover, it proves that the snake motif is still as popular as ever for women the world over. The serpent is a symbol of fertility, creation, and salvation, as well as seduction, power, and wisdom – attributes that have long been associated with the feminine spirit. We may not always be consciously aware of the original significance of the snake symbol, but there is still something about it that draws you in.
What’s so special about the Bvlgari Serpenti?
Symbolism aside, the Serpenti has a certain something about it that can’t be put into words. It trumps all the other snake-themed pieces of jewelry or watches that I know of, and I’ll never forget the first time I saw one on another woman’s wrist. The Serpenti is certainly eye-catching, and it makes you admire the person wearing it a little bit more. Is it the confidence the watch inspires in the wearer? Who knows. In any case, you certainly won’t forget the feeling you get the first time you slip one on your wrist. Regardless of whether it suits your own personal style, this watch brings up a well of emotions. It doesn’t just make you feel glamorous and luxurious, but strong and independent as well.
This doesn’t have to do with any specific rational reason or design feature, it probably comes down to the zeitgeist the watch is associated with. WWII had a major influence on woman’s role in society. Since so many men were away at the front, women took on new responsibilities. This didn’t just contribute to women’s independence, but also their confidence in taking on more roles outside the home. The jewelry created at the time reflected these women; independent women who knew they were capable of building and creating. This spirit lives on today in anyone who chooses to wear a Bvlgari Serpenti on their wrist. It’s strong, independent women who are capable of making their own decisions who opt to add this statement watch to their collections.
In Short
We watch enthusiasts are often guilty of looking past quartz timepieces, but you shouldn’t let the Bvlgari Serpenti pass you by. There’s a reason why this style icon has been around for 75 years and graced the wrists of so many style icons. It’s a veritable serpent in watch form. The Serpenti boasts a timeless design that never goes out of style. It’s one of a kind, yet tasteful. And while it has certainly changed with the times, shedding skins again and again, the model has never lost its core identity. The Bvlgari Serpenti perfectly combines innovation and tradition. This is a watch made for a generation of women who forged their own paths, first out of necessity, and later by choice.
