Synonymous with luxury and horological innovation, Audemars Piguet has captivated watch enthusiasts for over a century, thanks to its exceptional craftsmanship, avant-garde designs, and wonderfully unique timepieces that break from horological convention. From truly timeless designs to cutting-edge engineering, the brand has offered a range of models that appeal to various tastes and preferences over the years. In this article, we’ll explore the five best Audemars Piguet watches there are to buy, at least in my opinion. Spanning a breadth of different forms, functions, and features, these five watches will bring value to collectors and casual wearers alike in their own different ways.
1. The Code 11.59 ref. 15210OR.OO.A348KB.01
Launched in 2019 to a rather tumultuous reception, AP has shown impressive resilience to stick to the script with what was originally one of the most controversial launches in a long time. Since those early days, the Code 11.59 has grown into its own impressive collection with increasingly popular variants. In 2023, the Code 11.59 saw two new 41mm and 38mm variants added to the collection that I think are two of the best options for someone who needs a dress watch, with my pick being the 41mm ref. 15210OR.
Dismissing the 3-6-9-12 applied numeral dial arrangements that were seen as cluttered and busy, this latest batch of novelties features applied indices set atop beautifully executed dials with concentric guilloché patterns that radiate out from the central pinion like ripples in water. Featuring a “Bleu Nuit Nuage 50” dial, which is the perfect accompaniment to the ref. 15210OR’s 18kt rose gold construction, this is the Code 11.59 we have been waiting for – the perfect blend of modernity, elegance, and visually appealing design, and I must say that I’m a huge fan.
2. The Royal Oak ref. 5402
Whether you love or hate the Royal Oak, there is no denying that the Royal Oak ref. 5402 is the cornerstone of Audemars Piguet’s legacy as a watchmaker, brand, and company. Often hailed as one of the most iconic luxury sports watches ever, its release in 1972 shaped the modern watchmaking industry as we know it today. The original reference, the ref. 5402, is the ultimate vintage sports watch to have – at least as far as Audemars Piguet’s offerings are concerned. Featuring the distinctive octagonal bezel and iconic integrated bracelet, the ref. 5402’s 39mm stainless steel case allows it to wear with a contemporary sense of style that has proven to be truly timeless, given just how popular its aesthetic remains to this day.
Boasting a blue “Petite Tapisserie” dial that adds depth and texture to its display, the Royal Oak ref. 5402 is inarguably appealing, and collectors seeking the best Audemars Piguet to buy need to look no further. Granted, if vintage isn’t your thing, the ref. 15202 isn’t a bad honorary replacement for the ref. 5402, but as a fan of vintage, an A-series ref. 5402 is one of my dream watches. Between its history, design, and impact on the entire industry, the ref. 5402 is the ultimate watch to have, especially if we restrict ourselves to just APs.
3. The Royal Oak Offshore Flying Tourbillon Flyback Chronograph ref. 26622TI.GG.D002CA.01
For those seeking a watch that combines innovation with sporty aesthetics, the Royal Oak Offshore Flying Tourbillon Flyback Chronograph ref. 26622TI.GG.D002CA.01 is an exceptional choice. Launched in 2021, this incredible timepiece ushered in a new era for the Royal Oak Offshore, where the collection no longer played second fiddle to the Royal Oak within AP’s catalog but stood as a peer. Featuring a robust 43mm titanium case, this lightweight and durable watch features a completely skeletonized dial that houses its two flyback chronograph subdials at 3 and 9 o’clock and its flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock. While it is limited to only 100 pieces and was priced at CHF 242,100 when it came out, this watch is by all means one of the best Audemars Piguet watches to buy if you are interested in AP’s haute horological prowess and talents.
4. The Starwheel ref. 25720
Moving from a modern dress watch to a vintage sports watch and then to a modern avant-garde piece takes us firmly to a vintage avant-garde dress watch, the Audemars Piguet ref. 25720 “Starwheel”. Launched in 1991 as a rather unconventional timepiece, the Starwheel takes its inspiration from the wandering hours complication that dates back to the 17th century. As such, the Starwheel displays the time using three sapphire disks that rotate along the top of the dial and across a minute track. As each hourly disk passes over the chapter ring, the movement of time is realized, and the next hour slowly takes the previous hour’s spot along the chapter ring. Thus, the Starwheel highlights the cyclical nature of time in a relatively peaceful manner.
Produced only in precious metals and in extremely limited quantities, the Starwheel features a stepped bezel and an entirely polished surface, alongside a small winding crown and unimposing lugs to complete its physical construction. While its design might be under-the-radar due to its nature as a dress watch, the Starwheel’s display is what amazes and delights, and it’s the reason why the Starwheel is enjoying some incredible momentum in collectors’ circles as it so deserves.
5. The Bamboo
For my last suggestion, I would like to pick a wildcard of a watch, and so I have decided upon the Audemars Piguet Bamboo. An obscure vintage treasure that has begun to finally get the plaudits it deserves, the Bamboo is a unique collection that AP launched in the 1980s, featuring a bamboo-inspired construction design. Made of precious metals and offered with a wide variety of dial designs, diamond setting patterns, and so on, the Bamboo highlights Audemars Piguet’s commitment to craftsmanship and artistic design. While it isn’t as well-known as watches like the Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse or Rolex Cellini, the Bamboo is wonderfully illustrative of AP’s ability to create weird and wonderful watches that break from convention, and for that, I admire it.
Conclusion
Audemars Piguet continues to push the boundaries of watchmaking, blending tradition with innovation and a rich heritage as one of watchmaking’s most important brands. Whether you’re in the market for a modern dress watch like the Code 11.59, a vintage classic like the Royal Oak ref. 5402, or something uniquely designed like the Bamboo, each of these five watches offers something special and unique that differentiates them not only from other APs but also from watches across different brands.
