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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar 26574ST.OO.1220ST.01 Unworn Steel 41mm Automatic
TOP
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Stainless Steel...
C$176,991
Free shipping
Professional dealer
536
US
Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5164A-001 Unworn Steel 40mm Automatic
TOP
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time Stainless Steel 5164A-001
C$124,023
Free shipping
Professional dealer
536
US
Rolex Datejust 126300 Unworn Steel 41mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Datejust 41mm Smooth Black Stick Dial Oyster 126300...
C$13,931
Professional dealer
828
US
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver 15720ST.OO.A027CA.01 Unworn Steel 42mm Automatic
TOP
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver 15720ST.OO.A027CA.01
C$57,006
Free shipping
Professional dealer
536
US
Jacob & Co. Astronomia AS300.40.AP.AK.A New Rose gold 44.5mm Manual winding
TOP
Jacob & Co. Astronomia Solar Planets Ltd 101 Pcs (New Full Set)
C$273,626
Free shipping
Professional dealer
36
HK
Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch 311.32.42.30.04.001 Very good Steel 42mm Manual winding
TOP
Omega Speedmaster Alaska Project Limited Edition Full set
C$28,592
Professional dealer
127
JP
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph 5270P-001 Unworn Platinum 41mm Manual winding
TOP
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph 5270P-001
C$227,439
Professional dealer
139
US
Franck Muller Vanguard V45 YT SC DT AC BL New Steel 44mm Automatic
TOP
Franck Muller Vanguard KOI
C$10,010
Professional dealer
305
US
Rolex Yacht-Master 40 126655-0002 New Rose gold 40mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Yacht-Master 40 18k Rose Gold OysterFlex 40mm 126655 - &...
C$45,602
Professional dealer
41
US
Rolex Submariner Date 16610 Unworn Steel 40mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Submariner Date UN-WORN Boxes Papers Black Dial Bezel...
C$18,356
Professional dealer
195
US
A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia 211.088 New Rose gold 40mm Manual winding
TOP
A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin
C$61,945
Professional dealer
187
US
Breitling 777 Very good Steel 37mm Manual winding
TOP
Breitling Chronograph Copper Dial 777 1951
C$4,851
Free shipping
Professional dealer
182
DE
Rolex Datejust 1601 Good Gold/Steel 36mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Datejust 36mm Yellow Gold bezel and Pie Pan Champaign...
C$5,561
Professional dealer
7
US
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 77350CE.OO.1266CE.01 New Ceramic 34mm Automatic
TOP
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Ceramic (New Full Set)
C$124,598
Free shipping
Professional dealer
36
HK
Roger Dubuis Much More M34574053/2 Very good Rose gold Automatic
TOP
Roger Dubuis Muchmore Bi-retrograde Calender Rose Gold
C$18,618
Professional dealer
127
JP
Rolex GMT-Master 6542 Good Steel 38mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex GMT-Master
C$17,726
Professional dealer
30
US
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar 5056P Good Platinum Automatic
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Platinum 5056P with Box
C$32,944
Professional dealer
16
US
Rolex Submariner Date 16610LV Very good Steel 40mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Submariner Date 40mm Kermit Green Bezel Anniversary...
C$24,708
Professional dealer
41
US
Rolex GMT-Master II 16710T New Steel 40mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex GMT-Master II UN-WORN Boxes Papers Pepsi Blue Red Bezel...
C$24,553
Professional dealer
195
US
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph 26470SO.OO.A002CA.01 New Steel 42mm Automatic
TOP
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph
C$54,484
Professional dealer
187
US
TAG Heuer Monaco CW211A Very good Steel 38mm Automatic Canada, Toronto
TAG Heuer Monaco Gulf Limited Edition
C$6,500
Professional dealer
 
CA
Rolex Datejust 1601 Very good Gold/Steel 36mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Datejust 36mm White Gold Bezel with Silver Dial ref# 1601
C$5,561
Professional dealer
7
US
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar 26615TI.OO.1220TI.01 New Titanium 41mm Automatic
TOP
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Japan Ltd 300 Pcs...
C$482,103
Free shipping
Professional dealer
36
HK
Rolex Datejust 16203 Very good Gold/Steel 36mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex W- Name Nick Price Limited Edition 200Pcs
C$11,969
Professional dealer
127
JP
Rolex Daytona 116520 Very good Steel 40mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Daytona White Dial Chronograph Steel 40MM 116520 -...
C$41,167
Professional dealer
35
US
Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5165 Very good Steel 38mm Automatic
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Model 5165 Very Rare with Box
C$74,757
Professional dealer
16
US
Rolex Datejust II 116334 Very good Steel 41mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Datejust II Stainless Steel White Gold Blue Roman Dial...
C$13,938
Professional dealer
41
US
Rolex Datejust 126334 New Steel 41mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Datejust 41 Wimbledon Slate Dial Fluted Bezel Jubilee...
C$21,463
Professional dealer
195
US
Tudor Black Bay Chrono 79360N-0002 New Steel 41mm Automatic
TOP
Tudor Dial Chronograph 79360 M79360 Black Bay Chrono
C$8,616
Professional dealer
187
US
Zenith Very good Yellow gold 35mm Manual winding
TOP
Zenith Chronometre 18k Dress Cal. 12-4 1946
C$3,969
Free shipping
Professional dealer
182
DE
Breitling Montbrillant Légende C23340 Very good Gold/Steel 47mm Automatic
TOP
Breitling Navitimer B&P serviced 18K gold 47MM REF#C23340
C$7,969
Professional dealer
7
US
Franck Muller Vanguard V 45 SC DT YACHT (5N) New Rose gold 45mm Automatic
TOP
Franck Muller Vanguard Yachting Rose Gold Blue Dial (New Full...
C$15,799
Free shipping
Professional dealer
36
HK
Rolex Daytona 116518 Unworn Yellow gold 40mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex UNWORN Daytona — Tahitian Pearl Dial — Box and Papers —...
C$61,453
Professional dealer
94
US
Rolex Submariner Date 116613LB Very good Gold/Steel 40mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Submariner Date
C$25,202
Professional dealer
35
US

Mechanical Watches: Technical Masterpieces

The mechanical watch is one of humanity's most important cultural innovations. For centuries, watches have been keeping track of time. Today, there is a myriad of environmentally-friendly mechanical watches running precisely without a battery.


Highlights

  • Watchmaking art - a fine piece of craftsmanship on your wrist
  • Incredible variety: a watch for every budget and taste
  • No batteries required: manual and automatic calibers
  • Famous diving watches such as the Rolex Submariner
  • Inexpensive automatic watch: Tissot PRS 516

Mechanical Watches: A Cultural Revival

Watch lovers and collectors have been enthusiastically celebrating mechanical watches for decades. Wristwatches from Rolex or Patek Philippe are considered some of the most coveted luxury watches there are, and for good reason. Both manufacturers produce mechanical timepieces that are valuable and maintain their worth. Some vintage models and limited editions even increase in value over the years.

However, there was a time when mechanical watches had a difficult time surviving. With the rise of inexpensive quartz watches in the 1970s, many watch manufacturers found themselves in extreme hardship. Some brands were forced to quit and have since disappeared; today, they are only known by watch experts. Before the quartz boom, mechanical wristwatches and pocket watches were everyday items. If you wanted to know the current time, you needed a watch, and at that time, most had a mechanical movement. However, since quartz watches were less expensive than their mechanical siblings in the mid-1970s, quartz timepieces almost completely wiped mechanical ones off the map.

Mechanical watches experienced a comeback in the beginning of the 1980s, however. Watch lovers and collectors rediscovered the charm of a ticking mechanical movement, and felt able to accept deviations of seconds or minutes. However, it was really about the technology and precision engineering inside the watch. Since most manufacturers switched to making quartz watches, fans of mechanical watches had to find these timepieces at flea markets, auctions, and in leftover stock. In those days, it was easy to get a good bargain. That changed a few years later when the demand for old mechanical watches exceeded the supply. Traditional watch manufacturers noticed this change and began to offer mechanical watches in their collections once again. New brands and manufacturers also began to spring up in abundance, such as the German brand Nomos. Roland Schwertner founded this business in 1990, shortly after the fall of the Berlin Wall.

Classic watchmaking has been experiencing a renaissance and a completely unexpected boom in sales. Wristwatches have transformed from a basic commodity to a status symbol for both men and women.


Introductory Mechanical Watches

There is an abundance of mechanical watches, from inexpensive pre-owned or new models to mid-priced new watches to exclusive pieces which can cost upwards of a million euros. You can find pre-owned vintage watches from brands such as Seiko for less than 100 euros . These watches are often in good condition and are an inexpensive introduction to the world of mechanical watches. You can also find new watches from Japanese manufacturers such as Citizen, Orient, and Seiko in the 100 - 200 euros price range. There are many manufacturers, such as Junkers or Zeppelin, that use Japanese movements from Miyota in their introductory models. Miyota is Citizen's caliber department.

Swiss mechanical watches are also available at inexpensive prices. A used, vintage Tissot watch costs between 100 and 400 euros. A new Tissot PRS 516 , one of their most famous and popular models, costs around 500 euros. A highlight in this collection is the Powermatic 80 variant, with an impressive 80-hour power reserve. It's available for around 700 euros; usually, watches with long power reserves cost a few thousand euros. With an added stopwatch function, a used PRS-516 costs around 1,000 euros. New watches from this series cost around 1,600 euros. Mechanical watches from Certina, Hamilton, or Longines are in a similar price range to Tissot's.


Luxury Mechanical Watches from Omega and Rolex

The Swiss watch manufacturer Omega has an excellent reputation in the watch industry. Their timepieces are defined by their innovative technology, appealing designs, and an excellent price-performance ratio. One of Omega's most popular models is the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. This chronograph was the first to reach the Moon. Pre-owned models in very good condition are available for around 2,500 euros. New, the Speedmaster Professional costs at least 3,000 euros. Special editions like the Silver Snoopy Award Limited Edition have doubled in value: originally, the watch cost 5,900 euros, while it now costs 12,000 euros new.

Rolex is probably the most famous watch brand worldwide. There's no other brand that stands for luxury and prestige like Rolex does. The Submariner and the Daytona are two of the most sought-after Rolex models. The bicolor Daytona is available pre-owned starting for around 8,500 euros. Pre-owned Daytonas made of stainless steel, however, cost at least 10,000 euros. New, the bicolor model costs 10,000 euros; a new stainless steel model costs around 14,000 euros. Stainless steel Rolex watches are especially in demand and thus maintain a more stable value. The Paul Newman Daytona is also quite popular. This model can be identified by its contrasting dial edges and subdials. The numbers on the dial are in an Art Deco style. Models with reference number 6239 are particularly rare. If they feature a Paul Newman design, these watches can easily cost over 100,000 euros.

The Rolex Submariner, one of the first diving watches ever produced, is available pre-owned for around 4,500 euros. New models without a date display and the distinctive date magnifier cost about 6,000 euros. With a date display, the Submariner costs around 7,000 euros. A vintage Submariner with reference number 1680 and red writing on the dial costs between 10,000 and 20,000 euros. It earned its nickname "Red Sub" thanks to its characteristic red text.


Manual Winding Mechanical Watches

Every mechanical movement has multiple gears. In each movement, the energy for the movement of the wheels comes from a specific storage. In large grandfather clocks, these are weights attached to chains, and the chains must be pulled in order to wind the movement. Pocket watches and wristwatches, on the other hand, have mainsprings which can be wound via a key or a crown. The potential energy stored in the wound mainspring is released to the train in a controlled fashion. Mainsprings were also what made it possible to downsize movements. Another pioneering invention was the concept of crown winding, which made easy-to-lose keys obsolete. One of the first pocket watches with crown winding came from Louis Audemars. The business introduced this watch feature in 1838. You can also set the hands using the crown.

A mechanical movement functions very simply in theory. The mainspring receives its energy via the crown, winding stem, and wheels of the winding system. In order to prevent the mainspring from suddenly unrolling, there's a small stopwork. The train reduces the high force of the mainspring. The train's transmission is calculated so precisely that the seconds wheel makes a full rotation every minute. The escapement is located at the end. It's comprised of a pallet and an escape wheel. The escapement prevents the train from going out of control, and it ensures the watch keeps running by forwarding tiny force pulses to the balance wheel. The balance wheel keeps the pace of the movement, oscillating back and forth. It's comprised of the balance rim and balance spring, which is the beating heart of every mechanical caliber. Without the balance spring, the balance wheel along with the entire movement would stop moving after a short time. Thus, the escapement and oscillation systems form the base of every mechanical watch.

The motion train is located under the dial. Generally, this reduces the center wheel's number of revolutions by one-twelfth. The center wheel makes one rotation on its own axis every 60 minutes. Thus, the hour hand makes one full rotation every 12 hours.

Several different manufacturers are still producing manual winding mechanical calibers, such as Junghans, Nomos, Patek Philippe, and Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Technical Details of Manual Winding Watches

  • Movement design allows for flat cases
  • Manual winding
  • Runs without a battery for up to 8 days

Automatic Mechanical Watches

The invention of automatic winding revolutionized the mechanical watch, as automatic watches wind themselves just by being worn. The regular morning ritual of winding your wristwatch ceased to exist. In order for the watch to automatically wind, a rotor is used. Thanks to the constant force of gravity, it's always being pulled towards the center of the Earth. When you move your arm up and down, the rotor rotates around in the case and winds the mainspring.

Winding occurs uni- or bidirectionally, depending on the movement. A bidirectional winding system has the advantage that the movement's winding rotor is wound to the right and to the left. A unidirectional winding system powers the movement by winding it in one direction. Therefore, it takes longer to fully wind the watch. The Pellaton winding system is an especially efficient winding system. It winds the movement bidirectionally, using small movements of the oscillating mass. The inventor of the Pellaton winding system was Albert Pellaton, the technical director at the International Watch Company from 1944 to 1966.

Both winding systems have a so-called reduction gear. This converts the fast movements of the rotor into slower ones with a higher torque. The end of the mainspring is not directly connected to the barrel. Rather, the end is connected to the so-called slipping spring so that the mainspring doesn't break off. When the movement is fully wound, the slipping spring slides along the inner wall of the barrel.

Mechanical watches with an automatic caliber have many advantages to offer. For one, they're convenient, as they don't need to be wound by hand. They also don't require batteries to run, making them generally more environmentally friendly than quartz watches. Generally, automatic movements are also more precise than manual movements, as the oscillating mass provides constant tension to the mainspring. That involves constant torque, which positively affects the amplitude. Amplitude is a term referring to the degree of rotation the balance wheel moves per oscillation.

Amongst watchmakers, the in-house, automatic Rolex calibers are considered some of the best, most robust, and most precise movements in existence.

Technical Details of Automatic Watches

  • Wind automatically while being worn
  • Often more precise than manual winding watches
  • Environmentally friendly: no battery

Mechanical Watches with Special Complications

Most mechanical watches limit themselves to displaying the time and the date. Automatic winding is one of the most common complications utilized in watches. A complication is a function of a mechanical movement that goes beyond displaying the hours, minutes, and seconds. Watchmakers also differentiate between small and large complications. Small complications are, for example, date or day of the week displays or power reserve indicators. A diving watch's rotatable bezel, moon phase display, or a GMT watch's second time zone are also small complications. Complications like minute repetition, perpetual calendars, and large and small striking works are considered large complications . A stopwatch function is also a large complication. In comparison to a perpetual calendar, a stopwatch function is similarly intricate, but more common and much less expensive.

The Swiss manufacturer Patek Philippe is known for their especially complicated watches. Their 1932 Graves Supercomplication pocket watch, as well as the Calibre 89 from 1989, are considered some of their most intricate pieces. The Graves Supercomplication, a special project for the New York banker Henry Graves, Jr., has an impressive 24 complications. Among these complications are a perpetual calendar, double chronograph to time intervening periods, and different astronomical displays. In 1989, the Calibre 89 replaced the Graves Supercomplication as the most complicated pocket watch in the world. The Calibre 89 has 33 different functions and remains one of the most complicated pocket watches in the world to date. It has a full perpetual calendar, a split-seconds chronograph, an indicator for the moon's age and phases, astronomical functions, a minute repeater, an alarm, and both a grande and petite sonnerie.

One of the most complicated wristwatches in the world is the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime with 20 complications. The timepiece has multiple acoustic complications, such as a minute repeater, petite sonnerie, grand sonnerie , an alarm with time strike, and a perpetual date repeater. The watch can also function as an alarm. It can even chime the time. Furthermore, it displays a second time zone, a perpetual calendar, power reserve indicators for the going train and strikework, a day and night display, and a moon phase display. The caliber 300 GS AL 36-750 QIS FUS IRM, which powers the Grandmaster Chime, is comprised of 1,366 pieces. The watch's red gold case is very finely chiseled, and in order to display all of the complications, the watch has a dial on the front and back side. Patek Philippe calls this "double face." There are only seven Grandmaster Chime watches in the world, one of which is located in the Patek Philippe Museum. This extravagant watch costs around 6.4 million euros.