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Omega Speedmaster: From Earth to Outer Space
The Omega Speedmaster is one of the world's most famous chronographs. It went down in history as the first wristwatch on the Moon. Today, this beloved collection comprises numerous models, from the classic Moonwatch to high-end timepieces.
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Iconic Chronographs
First introduced in 1957 as a racing chronograph, the Omega Speedmaster became a legend on the wrist of NASA astronaut Buzz Aldrin in July 1969 as the first wristwatch on the Moon.
The Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch has changed very little since its grand debut over 65 years ago, and still impresses with its relatively simple stepped dial, three subdials in a tricompax layout, characteristic tachymeter bezel, and a precise and reliable manual caliber. The latter has been continuously refined over the years. Omega equips the current calibers with its proprietary Co-Axial escapement and has the movements certified as Master Chronometers. Timepieces with this certificate are not only extremely accurate, but also anti-magnetic up to 15,000 gauss.
But the Speedmaster range goes far beyond the Moonwatch. The collection also includes numerous retro and racing models, unisex, and ladies' watches set with diamonds, as well as highly accurate quartz watches with digital and analog displays. Along with stainless steel, available materials include a number of gold alloys, platinum, titanium, and ceramic. Omega also regularly releases special limited Speedmaster editions that are particularly popular with collectors.
Reasons to Buy an Omega Speedmaster
- Legendary chronograph series with cult status
- The first watch on the Moon: Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch
- Co-Axial Master Chronometers with magnetic resistance to 15,000 gauss
- Limited editions with the potential to increase in value
- Large selection of different models and materials
Overview of Omega Speedmaster Models
Together with the Seamaster line, the Speedmaster collection is one of the most extensive in the Omega catalog. The collection is currently divided into six sub-collections, each containing a variety of models. Here's a look at the main ones.
The Most Popular Speedmaster: The Moonwatch
The Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch is still the best-known and most significant Speedmaster model. It was, after all, the first watch on the Moon. The Omega Speedmaster Professional was part of the standard equipment of NASA astronauts in the 1960s, and had to undergo a long and rigorous selection process to earn that role.
Omega has made few changes to the original model over the decades. The current model is closest to the original and known as the "New Moon" ref. 310.30.42.50.01.001. Like all Moonwatches, it has a diameter of 42 mm. The dial, known as a "step dial" due to its slightly recessed subdials and offset minute track, is black, while the hands and hour markers are white. This reference has a domed Hesalite crystal and a black tachymeter bezel, which is made of anodized aluminum and features the famous "Dot over 90" – i.e., a dot above the 90.
As an alternative to the Hesalite crystal, there's also a more modern version with a sapphire crystal, ref. 310.30.42.50.01.002, which is easily recognized by the transparent case back revealing the caliber 3861 inside.
When it comes to the movements, Omega essentially remains faithful to tradition: The current Moonwatch features the ultra-modern hand-wound caliber 3861, which is a direct descendant of the caliber 861 first used in the Moonwatch in 1969.
The "New Moon" in Rose or White Gold
The Omega "New Moon" is available in red and white gold versions, in addition to stainless steel. Ref. 310.60.42.50.01.001 is made entirely of Omega's own red gold alloy Sedna-Gold and has a black dial.
New Moon models made from the yellow gold alloy "moonshine gold" are somewhat more colorful. Omega provides ref. 310.60.42.50.10.001, for example, with a dark green dial, while ref. 310.60.42.50.99.002 features a gold dial with black subdials.
The "Canopus gold" ref. 310.60.42.50.02.001 in white gold with a silver-colored dial is a bit more subtle in terms of look. Technically, the gold models are identical to their stainless steel counterparts.
Vintage Moonwatch Models
The Moonwatch worn by Armstrong, Aldrin, and fellow astronauts during their Apollo missions are hugely popular with Omega fans and collectors. The ref. 105.012 is one such watch; after all, it is the exact model worn by Buzz Aldrin and thus made history as the first watch on the Moon. This timepiece is powered by the caliber 321, which is an evolution of the Lemania 2310 and can found in the early Speedmasters produced between 1957 and 1968.
The successor model bears the reference number 145.012. This watch is also powered by caliber 321. Differences to the 105.012 are minimal and purely optical.
Another interesting vintage option is ref. 145.022, which celebrated its premiere in 1969 and is visually identical to the 145.012 but powered by the caliber 861.
Probably the most affordable vintage Moonwatch models are variants powered by the caliber 1861 , like ref. 311.30.42.30.01.005. The look of these watches has also remained virtually unchanged over the years.
Speedmaster Professional With Caliber 321
Anyone looking for watches with the overhauled caliber 321 from 2019 should keep an eye out for the ref. 311.93.42.30.99.001. This reference pairs a platinum case with a black leather strap. Sapphire crystal protects the watch from the front and back. Omega crafts the step dial itself from black onyx and the subdials from moon rock. The black "dot over 90" tachymeter bezel is made of polished ceramic.
Since 2020, the Speedmaster Calibre 321 has also been available in stainless steel. With a diameter of 39.7 mm, this watch is significantly smaller than its 42-mm platinum counterpart, making it the same size as the third-generation Speedmaster worn by American astronaut Ed White during his spacewalk in 1965.
In January 2022, Omega introduced another Speedmaster model with the caliber 321. You can find this model under the reference number 311.50.39.30.01.001, and you'll see that it is reminiscent of the first Speedmaster from 1957. Like its legendary predecessor, it has a diameter of 38.6 mm and the broad arrow-shaped hands we know from the original. The bezel is brushed and features the famous "dot over 90" detail. However, unlike the original, this new Speedmaster is made of Canopus gold, and has a transparent case back and sapphire crystal.
The Gold Speedmaster Apollo 11
To mark the 50th anniversary of the Moon landing in 2019, Omega launched a special version of the Speedmaster: the Apollo 11 50th Anniversary Limited Edition in gold. Limited to just 1,014 pieces, the watch pays homage to reference BA145.002, the Speedmaster that the Apollo astronauts received as a special recognition from NASA between 1969 and 1973.
The case and bracelet of the new Speedmaster are made of Omega's Moonshine gold. Like the original, the bezel is burgundy red, but in modern ceramic instead of aluminum. The gold dial is brushed with faceted onyx hour markers. This elegant watch is powered by the Omega caliber 3861.
"Speedy Tuesday" Models
The special-edition "Speedy Tuesday" from 2017 and "Speedy Tuesday 2 Ultraman" from 2018 are highly coveted among Speedmaster fans. Omega developed these timepieces in collaboration with the online magazine Fratello. Both are limited to 2,012 pieces and sold out within hours of being announced. They share a 42-mm stainless steel case, Hesalite crystal, and Omega manual caliber 1861.
The first Speedy Tuesday has a "reverse panda" dial, meaning it has a black dial and white subdials. One of the Speedy's most notable details is its radial subdials coated in luminous material. Other striking features include the vintage logo and corresponding markers. The manufacturer mounts the watch on a brown leather strap, and every timepiece comes with a watch roll and an additional NATO strap.
The Speedy Tuesday 2 also goes by the nickname "Ultraman." This timepiece shares several design elements with the classic Moonwatch ref. 145.012-67, which appeared in the Japanese TV show "Return of Ultraman" in the early 1970s. While the original model only had an orange chronograph seconds hand, the new Ultraman features a few more splashes of this bright hue.
Another highlight is the silhouette of the series' hero, hidden on the 60-minute subdial, which can only be seen under UV light. For this reason, Omega includes a UV lamp with each watch.
Like the Speedy Tuesday 1, the second edition features a vintage Omega logo on its dial. It comes in an intricate hexagonal box, which also contains a matching black and orange NATO strap and an additional black leather strap.
Speedmaster Reduced: The Small Automatic Speedy
If you want to call an Omega Speedmaster your own but find the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch a bit too large, you should take a look at the Speedmaster Reduced ref. 3510.50.00. At 39 mm, it's smaller than the Moonwatch, making it the perfect size for more slender wrists. In contrast to its larger counterparts with manual calibers, the automatic Omega caliber 3220 ticks away inside the Reduced. This movement is based on the ETA 2890-A2 and features a Dubois Dépraz chronograph module.
The dial also differs from that of the Moonwatch: On the one hand, there are Arabic numerals as hour markers on the dial (in addition to the bar indices). On the other hand, the subdials are placed further out than on the Professional Moonwatch. Hesalite is used for the crystal. If you prefer a sapphire crystal, you can buy the more recent ref. 3539.50.00. By omitting the Arabic hour markers, this watch is even more similar to the Moonwatch visually.
Omega no longer produces either version of the Speedmaster Reduced, so you'll have to turn to the second-hand market.
The Speedmaster '57: A Retro Watch
The Speedmaster '57 is based on the original Speedmaster ref. CK2915 from 1957. The easiest way to recognize a "Speedmaster Broad Arrow" is by its arrow-shaped hour hand. Original models from the 1950s often fetch hundreds of thousands of dollars at auction.
Over the years, Omega has released a number of tributes to the very first Speedmaster. Of these, the 2017 version is probably the most sought after. The Speedmaster '57 Trilogy ref. 311.10.39.30.01.001 is limited to 3,557 pieces and was released in honor of the collection's 60th anniversary. A special feature of this watch are the straight lugs, just like those of the famous model. The caliber 1861 powers the 38.6-mm chronograph.
Multiple versions of the unlimited Speedmaster '57 are also available with the ultramodern Co-Axial caliber 9300. The watches in this collection have a case diameter of 41.5 mm, making them slightly larger than the 2017 limited edition. Furthermore, the watch has only two subdials: a combined hour and minute counter at 3 o'clock and a small seconds 9. A date window is located at the 6 o'clock position.
In March 2002, Omega expanded the range to include several models with a diameter of 40.5 mm. They have the same bicompax layout as the 41.5-mm models, but are powered by the Co-Axial caliber 9906. In addition to the retro versions with a black dial and beige luminous material on the hands and indices, the collection also includes models with sunburst dials in blue, green, and red.
Omega Speedmaster: The Ceramic Dark Side of the Moon
The Speedmaster collection also includes wristwatches made of ceramic, which is significantly harder than stainless steel and therefore more scratch-resistant. The ceramic Speedmaster is available in gray, white, or black. The latter is called Dark Side of the Moon and is dedicated to the astronauts of Apollo 8, who were the first people to see the hidden side of the Moon. The modern Co-Axial caliber 9300 ensures precise timekeeping.
The white case of the White Side of the Moon is also inspired by Earth's lunar body, but by its bright, shining presence in the night sky. The all-white design makes the watch look somewhat feminine, which is accentuated in the version with a diamond-set bezel and mother-of-pearl dial.
The Speedmaster Grey Side of the Moon is the third watch in this series. Its color scheme was inspired by moon dust and is a nod to American astronaut Jim Lovell's statement that "the Moon is essentially gray."
Speedmaster Racing for Motorsports Fans
The watches in the Speedmaster Racing line are a reminder of Omega's long-standing association with motorsport. Before the Speedmaster became the legendary Moonwatch, it was the cockpit companion to many racing drivers. The dial designs of the Racing variants are reminiscent of the dashboards of classic racing cars.
The chronograph is currently available in a variety of versions and sizes, and is powered by the automatic Omega Co-Axial caliber 9900, which is certified as a Master Chronometer.
Quartz-Powered Speedmasters
Omega's high-precision and functional quartz Speedmaster models meet professional demands. The Omega Speedmaster X-33 Skywalker and Marstimer, for example, were specially developed for astronauts and are the official mission watches of the European Space Agency (ESA). The 45-mm titanium watch has an analog and a digital display. The movement offers a perpetual calendar, three alarms, a chronograph, three time zones, and a countdown function. There are also some special timers that are useful for space missions.
The Omega Spacemaster Z-33 is yet another quartz member of the Speedmaster family. Its distinctive design was inspired by the Omega Flightmaster of the 1960s and 70s. Like the Skywalker X-33, the Spacemaster Z-33 features both analog and digital displays. The 43-mm titanium case is water-resistant to 30 m (3 bar, 98 ft). In terms of functionality, it has a chronograph function, an alarm, multiple time zones, and a perpetual calendar.
The Unisex Speedmaster 38
The Speedmaster 38 collection is home to a range of 38-mm models. Omega also offers a selection of stainless steel, Sedna gold, yellow gold, and two-tone versions with a white, brown, blue, black, or gray dial. Some of the gold variants feature diamon settings.
At the heart of the watches ticks the Omega Co-Axial caliber 3330 with a 52-hour power reserve. A stainless steel bracelet or leather strap keeps the Speedmaster 38 securely on the wrist.
MoonSwatch: The Colorful Speedmaster from Swatch
In March 2022, Swatch surprised the watch world with the most affordable and colorful Speedmaster to date: the MoonSwatch. The watch giant partnered with its subsidiary Omega to produce this reinterpretation of one of the world's most famous watches. Along with the Omega and Swatch logos, the dial also proudly displays the unmistakable Speedmaster inscription.
The shape and dimensions of the MoonSwatch correspond exactly to those of the Omega watch, and Swatch has also adopted the "Dot over 90" tachymeter bezel, the hand set, and the typography and aesthetics of the dials from the original.
But there are also significant differences: Swatch uses its own Bioceramic compound for the cases, a material consisting of two-thirds ceramic and one-third plant-based plastic.
Another key difference between the original Moonwatch and the MoonSwatch is the movement. Swatch uses a quartz caliber from ETA for the MoonSwatch. As a result, the MoonSwatch's subdials are at 2, 6, and 10 o'clock.
Omega Speedmaster Models at a Glance
- Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch: 42-mm diameter, available in stainless steel, platinum or gold, manual caliber
- Omega Speedmaster Reduced: 39-mm diameter, stainless steel, automatic caliber
- Omega Speedmaster '57: 41.5, 40.5, or 38.6-mm diameter, stainless steel, manual caliber
- Omega Speedmaster Racing: 44.25-mm diameter, available in stainless steel or gold, automatic caliber
- Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon: 44.25-mm diameter, ceramic, automatic caliber
- Omega Speedmaster Snoopy: 42-mm diameter, stainless steel, manual caliber
- Omega Speedmaster Speedy Tuesday: 42-mm diameter, stainless steel, manual caliber
- Omega x Swatch Speedmaster MoonSwatch: 42-mm diameter, Bioceramic, quartz caliber
How much does an Omega Speedmaster cost?
Omega Speedmaster prices are as varied as the collection itself. The most affordable model is the Speedmaster Date Automatic, which you can buy for around 2,560 USD. For just over 1,000 USD more, you can get the popular Speedmaster Reduced, which boasts a design reminiscent of the famous Moonwatch.
If you want the real thing, expect to pay between 6,600 USD for a standard Moonwatch model such as ref. 3570.50.00 and 63,000 USD for the platinum Moonwatch powered by the caliber 321. Special editions like the Silver Snoopy, Speedy Tuesday, and Apollo 11 models vary in price depending on the exact timepiece and can range from 14,000 to 56,000 USD. Moonwatches in Sedna or Canopus gold, Omega's proprietary rose and white gold alloys, require similar investments.
If you're looking for a vintage watch, there are plenty of Speedmasters to choose from. Expect to pay between roughly 7,500 USD for models from the 1970s and 80s, and over 80,000 USD for pieces from the very first production run of the Speedmaster in 1957.
Reasons to Buy an Omega Speedmaster
Prices for used Speedmasters vary greatly depending on the model. While sought-after collectibles like the Speedy Tuesday models or the first Silver Snoopy Award will set you back almost as much as new specimens, you can save an average of 10-20% on well-maintained second-hand standard models.
Prices at a Glance: Omega Speedmaster
FAQs
Does the Omega Speedmaster hold its value?
The Omega Speedmaster is generally considered to be a fairly stable investment, with most models appreciating in value over time.
Is the Omega Speedmaster an automatic watch?
Omega offers Speedmaster models with both automatic and manual calibers, but the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch is traditionally only available with a manual movement.
Which Omega Speedmaster is best suited for smaller wrists?
If the 42-mm Moonwatch is too big for you, take a look at the Speedmaster Reduced or Speedmaster 38.