Rolex Sea-Dweller

With its 1,220 m (122 bar, 4,000 ft) water resistance, the Sea-Dweller is one of the most robust Rolex watches. This diving watch is even suitable for professional saturation diving thanks to its helium escape valve. The Sea-Dweller Deepsea is even more impressive. It is water resistant to 3,900 m (390 bar, 12,795 ft) and, at 44 mm, is the largest Rolex available. The 43-mm ref. 126600 from 2017 is in particularly high demand. Developed in celebration of the Sea-Dweller's 50th anniversary, it features a red "Sea-Dweller" inscription and a Cyclops lens – a first for this series. This reference number is commonly known as "Single Red" due to its single-line red inscription.

The Sea-Dweller was first introduced in 1967 as the next evolution of the Submariner that had been released 14 years prior. The first prototypes from before 1967 are extremely rare today, making them both very expensive and highly coveted by collectors. The Rolex Sea-Dweller is by and large a classic diving watch with a unidirectional bezel and luminous indices and hands. The cases of the current models are made of 904L stainless steel, which contains more nickel and molybdenum than typical stainless steel. In the world of metallurgy, 904L stainless steel is prized for its toughness and resistance to corrosion.

A mint-condition 2017 Rolex Sea-Dweller ref. 126600 costs about 14,700 USD. Since this diving watch is highly sought-after, the online price is about 1,900 USD above the official list price. However, purchasing online comes with the advantage of avoiding the long wait times often experienced with offline retailers. The introduction of the ref. 126600 marked the end of the production of the first Sea-Dweller 4000 with the reference number 116600, which was first released in 2014. A never-worn model that cost less than 9,900 USD in 2017, now costs around 13,200 USD. Pre-owned pieces are slightly less expensive at 12,400 USD. If you bought a ref. 116600 in the last few years, you can now look forward to a significant increase in value.

Even the Rolex Sea-Dweller ref. 16600 has gained in value in recent years. This watch was produced from 1988 to 2008 and was replaced by the Deepsea. In the last five years, prices have risen by about 1,200 USD for pre-owned examples and by almost 2,500 USD for never-worn ones. Today, you have to set aside around 11,400 USD for a mint-condition timepiece and almost 7,800 USD for a pre-owned one.

Early reference numbers from the 1960s and 1970s are, without a doubt, some of the most highly coveted vintage versions of the Rolex Sea-Dweller. The ref. 1665 "Double Red" with its red "Sea-Dweller Submariner 2000" inscription on two lines is in particularly high demand and, of course, quite rare. Prices for pre-owned models sit around 28,700 USD and have continued to rise over the last few years. The so-called "Great White" has the same reference number, but no red inscription. The words "Sea-Dweller 2000ft=610m" were added to its dial in 1977. There are a few exceptions, but the "Great White" is generally less expensive than the "Double Red". You can find pieces in very good condition for under 24,700 USD. The "Great White" was also the last Sea-Dweller to feature plexiglass.

Rolex first introduced sapphire glass to the ref. 16660, also known as the "Triple 6". They originally sold it alongside the ref. 1665. With a water resistance of 1,200 m (122 bar, 4,000 ft), it was twice as pressure-resistant as its predecessor, though it was also thicker. The caliber 3035, with a higher balance frequency and instantaneous date, replaced the 1575 as the movement. You can purchase a pre-owned "Triple 6" for as little as 9,800 USD.

All Sea-Dweller models feature a date display at three o'clock. The standard versions have a stainless steel bracelet, a unidirectional rotating bezel with white markings, and a black dial with fluorescent white dot and line indices. The white hands are also fluorescent. The hour hand is a so-called Mercedes hand, a traditional Rolex characteristic informally named for the three-pointed star near the end of the hand. In the dark, the hands glow blue, as they're filled with Chromalight. Similar to the 904L stainless steel, Rolex is unique in their use of Chromalight; most other diving watches use the green-glowing Superluminova.

The Rolex Sea-Dweller offers a special technical extra that's necessary for long dives underwater: a helium escape valve. When divers stay for days or weeks in diving chambers, they must breathe special air saturated with helium. Tiny helium molecules find their way into the watch, and later, as the diver rises to the surface, the molecules cannot escape fast enough. This creates excess pressure in the watch and can cause the glass to pop out. To prevent this, Rolex invented the helium escape valve, which equalizes pressure. In the Deepsea and Sea-Dweller 4000, it operates automatically, while in some other diving watches, such as the Seamaster Planet Ocean from Omega, it requires hand operation.

The second part of the Sea-Dweller 4000's name comes from the maximum depth it can reach – 4,000 feet, or 1,220 meters. The watch is perfect for ocean depths that are normally only reached by professional divers. The first Sea-Dweller was designed with this group in mind when it premiered in the 1960s.

The origins of the Rolex Sea-Dweller are closely tied to the company COMEX. The development of offshore oil drilling created new jobs for divers, who were needed to construct offshore platforms and pipelines. These jobs required the divers, as well as their watches, to dive deeper and deeper.

The Compagnie maritime d'expertises (COMEX) has specialized in this sort of underwater mission since 1961. Rolex provided COMEX with a Submariner (reference number 5513), the first watch to feature a helium escape valve. This Submariner can be recognized by the inscription on its dial. These watches continue to sell for over 61,800 USD. Be prepared to pay six figures for rare Sea-Dweller prototypes without helium escape valves that were developed for depths of 1,500 m (4,900 ft). These watches were worn by a select group of U.S. Marine divers.

Rolex introduced the Sea-Dweller in 1967. The watch premiered with three distinctive features: a helium escape valve, water resistance to 610 m (2000 ft), and availability on the consumer market. This was a new combination, however, the production run was still small. The watch can be identified by the reference number 1665. The model designation on the dial was red for the first few years, and is an important detail for collectors. The one or two-line red inscription was a feature until 1977. These watches earned a fitting nickname: "Single Red" and "Double Red."

Rolex offers a special Deepsea model with a blue and black gradient dial, the so-called D-Blue dial. The watch is a celebration of filmmaker James Cameron's (Titanic) journey down to the Challenger Deep on March 26th, 2012. The Challenger Deep is 10,908 m (35,787 ft) below the ocean's surface in the Mariana Trench. Cameron took along a special Rolex Deepsea Challenge, which was fixed to the outside of the submarine.